A slatted or Venetian garden screen uses landscaping battens fixed across posts and intermediate supports. The battens can run horizontally or vertically; the gap controls how private or open the finished screen feels.
1. Choose the gap before calculating the timber
Use around 10–20mm where privacy is the priority. For a more open garden screen, around 15–30mm works well. Once you have chosen the gap, cut one spacer block and use it throughout the installation.
2. Keep the main posts around 1.8m apart
For this type of screen, we normally use main fence posts at roughly 1.8m centres. Keep them straight, plumb and in line because the battens make any error obvious.
3. Support the battens roughly every 900mm
For horizontal battens, add a vertical intermediate support at roughly 900mm, halfway between 1.8m-spaced posts. If you run the battens vertically, apply the same rule using horizontal supports so the battens still have a fixing point around every 900mm.
4. Fit black membrane before the battens if you want it
Black weed control membrane can be fitted behind the screen before the battens go on. It gives strong black contrast through the gaps, increases privacy and is particularly useful when screening old brickwork, a wall or another unattractive background.
5. Fix the first batten level and choose screws or brads
Take your time with the first batten because every slat after it follows that line.
For DIY installation, our preferred fixing is a 4 × 40mm Performance Exterior Screw – Silver Countersunk. Pre-drill the battens before screwing.
Trade installers often use a nail gun. A 38mm Galvanised Viper 16G Brad Nail has a small head and gives a less noticeable fixing.
For the cleanest face, screw through the support from behind. Make sure the screw is long enough to hold securely without breaking through the visible face.
6. Use the same spacer for every batten
Place the spacer between each batten as you work and check the line periodically. The spacer keeps the gaps consistent; the level or string line stops small errors building up across the finished screen.
7. Stagger butt joints on longer runs
Where two horizontal battens meet, make sure the joint lands on a support. Stagger the butt joints so they do not form one continuous vertical line and leave around 1–2mm between adjoining ends to allow for movement.
8. Decide how you want to handle a slope
You can either follow the ground or step each bay. We prefer following the ground where it suits the design, but a stepped screen also works well. Mitred joints can create a neater transition on a sloping run, although they make the installation more complicated.
9. Build exposed fences stronger
The gaps allow some wind through the screen, but the main protection in a windy location is still the structure. Use larger posts, set them deeper and use suitable strong fixings rather than relying on the slatted design alone.
10. Store the battens properly before fitting
Do not leave small-section battens piled on the floor to dry in direct sun. Keep them supported and ventilated and let them dry slowly and evenly. Thin timber can warp quickly when moisture and direct sunlight act on it unevenly.
How many battens do you need?
Use the Landscape Batten Calculator once you know the screen width, height, batten size and gap. It will also help plan the posts, intermediate supports, Postmix and fixings.
Shop the rounded-edge fence and landscaping battens. If you need both faces finished with no direct sightline through the gaps, use a hit-and-miss layout instead.
