A hit-and-miss fence uses two offset rows of timber so the gaps in one face are covered by timber on the other. Done properly, you keep the slatted appearance without a direct line of sight through the fence.
This guide uses horizontal rounded-edge landscaping battens. Hit-and-miss can also be built vertically, but the principle is the same: the second face has to be offset far enough to cover the sightline through the first.
Hit-and-miss vs a one-sided slatted screen
A Venetian or ordinary slatted screen normally has battens on one face only. It is quicker, uses less timber and can be made more or less open by changing the gap.
Hit-and-miss uses battens on both faces. That uses more material, but it gives a finished timber face on both sides and lets the rear battens cover the gaps seen from the front.
If you are choosing between the two rather than ready to build, start with Timber Garden Privacy Screens – Slatted, Venetian or Hit-and-Miss?.
What gap and overlap should you use?
For fencing, Wern-Wood normally works in the 10–20mm gap range. The smaller end gives more privacy; a wider gap lets more light through.
The overlap then has to be set to the gap. The goal is simple: the back batten should cover the direct sightline through the front gap.
Around 25mm overlap is a useful privacy starting point in the layout we use. If the back batten is not offset and simply sits directly behind the front batten, the gaps line up and you can still see straight through.
Do not copy the overlap figure without checking the actual batten width and gap on your build. Lay out a short section first and look through it at eye level; if there is a clear sightline, increase the offset.
What support layout do we use?
For horizontal landscaping battens, our normal starting layout is:
- Main posts at roughly 6ft (1.8m) centres.
- An intermediate support at about 3ft (0.9m), halfway across each bay.
- Battens fixed directly to the posts and intermediate support.
The middle support helps keep the long horizontal battens straight and the spacing consistent.
1. Set out the fence line and posts
Mark the full run and post positions before digging. Keep the posts straight and in line because the battens will make any changes in position obvious.
Around one third of the post length in the ground is a common general rule, but it is not a specification for every site. Read How Deep Should Fence Posts Be? for the factors that change the answer.
2. Fit the intermediate supports
Add a support roughly halfway between each pair of 6ft-spaced posts so each batten has a fixing point around every 3ft.
Keep these supports in the same plane as the relevant face of the posts. If the support sits proud or recessed, the slats will show it.
3. Choose the gap and make a spacer
Decide whether you want a tighter privacy fence or a slightly more open look, then cut a spacer block to that gap. For most fencing jobs we would start somewhere in the 10–20mm range.
Use the same spacer throughout each face of the fence. Consistency matters more visually than chasing a particular number.
4. Fit the first face of battens
Fix the first row of horizontal battens to one face of the posts and intermediate supports. Start level, use the spacer between battens and keep checking the line as you work up.
Use suitable exterior-rated fixings and pre-drill near batten ends where splitting is a risk.
5. Offset the second face to cover the gaps
Move to the other side of the fence and position the second row so each rear batten sits behind a gap in the first row rather than directly behind a front batten.
Set enough overlap that you cannot see directly through the slats. Around 25mm is a useful Wern-Wood starting point, but the final position should be checked against the actual gap and batten dimensions in front of you.
6. Check the sightline before completing the whole run
Build a small section of both faces and stand back at normal viewing height. If there is still a direct line through the gaps, correct the offset now. It is much easier than moving an entire finished row later.
7. Finish cut ends appropriately
Where pressure-treated timber has been cut, follow the treatment/product guidance for protecting freshly exposed ends.
How many battens will the fence need?
A hit-and-miss fence uses substantially more timber than a one-sided screen because you are building two offset faces. Work out the layout first, then use the Landscape Batten Calculator as a quantity-planning tool and include sensible contingency.
Want the slatted look without a second timber face?
If you only need one finished face, a one-sided slatted or Venetian screen is simpler. Where you want the gaps visually closed without a second row of battens, black weed membrane can be used behind the screen as a dark backing.
Shop the timber in Landscaping & Screening Battens or go directly to the rounded-edge landscaping batten.
