A hit-and-miss fence uses two offset rows of timber battens so the gaps in one face are covered by timber on the other. This keeps the slatted appearance while removing the straight-through sightline and gives both sides a finished timber face. It is not a solid wall, so some visibility can remain from oblique angles depending on the gap and overlap.
This guide uses rounded-edge fence and landscaping battens. The battens can run horizontally or vertically; the support layout changes direction with them.
Use a 10–20mm gap as the normal starting point
For this style of fencing, we normally work in the 10–20mm gap range. The rear row then needs enough offset to cover that gap when viewed through the front face.
Around 25mm overlap is a useful starting point in our normal layout, but do not treat it as a magic number. The important test is simple: if you can still see directly through the fence, the rear batten needs more overlap.
Once you have chosen the gap and overlap, use the Landscape Batten Calculator to work out how many battens you need before ordering.
Support the battens roughly every 900mm
For horizontal battens, our normal layout uses main fence posts at roughly 1.8m centres with an intermediate vertical support at roughly 900mm. If the battens are vertical, use horizontal supports on the same roughly 900mm spacing rule.
Keep the battens clear of soil and standing water
Do not run the decorative battens directly into soil or leave them sitting where water can collect. Keep the bottom of the screen clear of the ground. Where you want a finished base, a treated timber gravel board is a practical way to separate the battens from the ground.
1. Set the posts and supports in line
Set the main posts straight and plumb, then fit the intermediate supports in the correct plane for each face. Any support sitting proud or recessed will show through the finished slats.
2. Make one spacer for the first face
Choose the gap, cut a spacer to that size and use the same block throughout. Consistent spacing matters more visually than chasing an exact measurement on every batten.
3. Fix the first face
Start with a level batten and work up using the spacer. For DIY installation, our preferred fixing is a 4 × 40mm Performance Exterior Screw – Silver Countersunk. Pre-drill before screwing.
Trade installers can use a 51mm Galvanised Viper 16G Brad Nail for a quicker fixing with a small, less noticeable head. That is roughly the 50mm length we would choose for these battens.
4. Stagger joints on long horizontal runs
Every butt joint should land on a support. Stagger the joints rather than lining them up and leave around 1–2mm between adjoining batten ends for movement.
Where pressure-treated battens are cut or drilled, re-treat freshly exposed end grain with a suitable cut-end preservative before final assembly.
5. Offset the second face to cover the gaps
On the opposite side, position each rear batten behind a gap in the front face. Check the sightline through a short completed section before fixing the whole run.
If you want hidden screw heads, the battens can be screwed from behind through the support. Size the fixing carefully so it has enough bite without breaking through the finished face.
6. Choose how the fence follows sloping ground
Both stepped and sloping layouts work. We normally prefer following the ground where the design allows it, while stepped bays give a more geometric finish. Mitred joints can make a sloping transition look cleaner but add more cutting and layout work.
7. Strengthen the structure in exposed areas
The offset gaps allow some airflow through a hit-and-miss fence, so it is less closed than a completely solid face. That does not replace a strong fence structure. In windy locations, use larger posts, set them deeper and use suitable strong fixings.
Store the battens carefully before installation
Keep the timber supported and ventilated and let it dry slowly and evenly out of direct sunlight. Small-section timber can warp quickly if it is left piled on the floor or dries unevenly.
How many battens will a hit-and-miss fence need?
A hit-and-miss fence uses much more timber than a one-sided screen because it has two offset faces. Choose the gap and layout first, then use the Landscape Batten Calculator to plan the quantity.
If you only need one finished face, see How to Build a Slatted Fence or Venetian Garden Screen. For help choosing between the layouts, read Timber Garden Privacy Screens – Slatted, Venetian or Hit-and-Miss?.
