Quick answer: Loglap cladding is normally fitted horizontally to a sound timber subframe, with supports typically spaced somewhere between 400mm and 600mm centres depending on the building. Start square, keep checking level as you work, pre-drill where splitting is a risk and use good-quality fixings. The subframe matters just as much as the cladding itself.
Horizontal fitting is the usual choice because it creates the traditional log-cabin appearance, but Loglap can also be fitted vertically if that is the finish you want. The important part is planning the supporting frame and fixing pattern to suit the direction of the boards.
Before you start: get the frame right
A good Loglap finish starts behind the boards. Check the subframe is square, straight and suitable for supporting the cladding before you start fixing anything. Trying to hide a poor frame with the cladding usually creates more work later.
For support spacing, there is no single distance that suits every building. Closer support is generally better, but around 400mm or 600mm centres can both work depending on the structure. We would not normally want to go much beyond 600mm without a good reason.
Make a plan before you start. Decide how the boards will terminate at corners, doors and windows, where your fixing lines will run and how the first course will sit. A chalk line or other layout tool makes it much easier to keep visible face fixings straight and evenly spaced.
Should Loglap be fitted horizontally or vertically?
Horizontal is the normal installation. Loglap is designed to imitate the appearance of traditional log construction, so horizontal boards create the look most customers expect.
There is no reason the profile cannot be installed vertically if you prefer that design. It is simply much less common. If you choose a vertical installation, make sure the subframe provides suitable support for the direction of the boards rather than copying a frame layout intended for horizontal cladding.
How far apart should the supports be?
Support spacing depends on the building and its frame. As a practical guide, 400mm to 600mm centres is a sensible range for many garden-building applications, with closer spacing giving the boards more support. We would avoid pushing the spacing much beyond 600mm.
The supporting structure needs to stay straight and stable because any variation in the frame will show through the finished cladding. Before fixing the first board, check both square and level rather than assuming the frame is correct.
Plan the first board carefully
One of the most common mistakes is starting slightly out of level and then carrying that error through the whole wall. The problem can be difficult to notice when you are standing close to the work, but obvious once you step back.
Set the first board carefully, check it with a level and then keep checking level as you work up the wall. Do not only check the first and last board. A small error in the middle can create visible waves across the cladding.
Our current 22 x 125mm treated Loglap finishes at approximately 19 x 120mm and gives around 110mm effective cover. Use the actual cover when setting out the courses rather than assuming the full board width will remain visible.
Face fixing, tongue fixing or shoulder fixing?
Face fixing is the most common method because it is straightforward and gives you clear control over where each board is held to the frame.
Tongue or shoulder fixing can also be used where the board profile and chosen fixing are suitable. These methods can reduce the amount of visible fixing on the face, but they need more care and the fixing has to suit the method being used.
For a clean face-fixed finish, use a chalk line or layout tool to mark straight fixing lines over the supporting frame. Even spacing makes a big difference to the finished appearance, particularly on larger walls where uneven rows of fixings are easy to spot.
Should you use nails or screws for Loglap?
Both are practical options. Nails normally give the cleaner-looking finish, while screws are often easier for DIY installation because they give more control during fixing and are easier to remove if you need to correct a board.
If using screws, a small-head screw such as a 4mm screw can give a neat finish. Whatever fixing you choose, use a good-quality fixing suitable for the timber and the environment.
Do not place fixings unnecessarily close to the board edge. Splitting around the fixing is one of the common installation problems we see, and often means another board has to be used.
Should you pre-drill Loglap cladding?
We recommend pre-drilling where there is a risk of splitting, particularly close to board ends or edges. Loglap is relatively substantial, but timber can still split when a fixing is driven into a vulnerable part of the board.
Taking a few extra seconds to pre-drill is normally preferable to losing a full-length board after it splits.
Should Loglap boards be fitted tightly together?
This depends on how wet or dry the timber is when you fit it.
- If the boards are wet: we normally fit them tightly together. As the timber dries, some movement can occur naturally.
- If the boards are dry: allow a few millimetres rather than forcing every board tightly together, giving the timber some room for movement.
The aim is not to force the boards together regardless of their condition. Look at the timber you actually have in front of you and allow for the fact that exterior timber moves as its moisture content changes.
Ventilation matters even when the problem is not immediate
Poor ventilation is one of the mistakes that may not show up for months or even years. It can contribute to damp inside the building or cause the cladding to fail earlier than expected.
Do not treat the boards as the entire wall system. The frame, ventilation and detailing behind the cladding all contribute to how well the finished building performs.
What should you do at the bottom of the wall?
Most sheds and garden buildings should already be raised from the ground, so direct splashback is often less of a problem. If the cladding starts at or very close to ground level, a gravelboard can be used to protect the timber cladding from splashback.
The aim is to avoid leaving the bottom edge of the cladding in a position where it is repeatedly exposed to water and wet ground conditions.
How should you finish the corners?
There is no single correct visual detail. Corner trims are the most common option because they are simple and give a tidy finish.
You can also mitre the boards if you prefer that appearance, or design the building with a post detail for the cladding to finish into. Decide on the corner treatment before you start boarding so your cuts and board lengths work with the chosen finish.
Treat freshly cut ends
If treated boards are cut during installation, do not forget the newly exposed ends. Failing to protect cut ends is another mistake that may not become obvious immediately, but can contribute to premature deterioration later.
Use a suitable end-grain or cut-end treatment for the treated timber you are installing and follow the treatment manufacturer's instructions.
Common Loglap fitting mistakes
- Starting out of level: the error builds across the wall and creates visible waves.
- Not checking level as you go: a board can move even if the first course was perfect.
- Fixing too close to an edge: this can split the board and waste material.
- Poor ventilation: the consequences often appear much later as damp or early timber failure.
- Leaving cut ends untreated: another problem that normally appears later rather than during installation.
- Fitting the profile the wrong way around: uncommon, but worth checking before the first board is fixed.
- Ignoring the subframe: straight cladding cannot compensate for a badly built frame.
The five things we would get right first
- Check the frame is square.
- Set the first board level, then keep checking level throughout the installation.
- Plan the layout, fixing lines and corner details before starting.
- Use good fixings and pre-drill where splitting is a risk.
- Treat the subframe as equally important as the cladding.
If those basics are right, the rest of the installation becomes much easier.
Choosing the Loglap itself
For exterior garden buildings, see our 22 x 125mm treated softwood Loglap cladding, available in multiple lengths with approximately 110mm effective cover.
If you are still deciding which profile to use, read our Loglap vs Shiplap comparison. For other profiles and cladding options, browse the full Timber Cladding range.
Frequently asked questions
Can Loglap cladding be fitted vertically?
Yes. Horizontal installation is much more common because it produces the traditional log-cabin appearance, but a vertical installation can work if that is the design you want and the supporting frame is laid out accordingly.
What centres should I use for Loglap cladding?
It depends on the building, but around 400mm to 600mm centres is a practical range for many garden-building applications. Closer support is preferable to stretching the spacing unnecessarily, and we would not normally go much beyond 600mm.
Is it better to nail or screw Loglap?
Nails usually give the cleanest visual finish. Screws are often easier for DIY installers because they offer more control and can be removed more easily if a board needs adjusting. Small-head screws can keep the visible fixing neat.
Do I need to pre-drill Loglap?
Pre-drilling is recommended where a fixing could split the board, especially near ends and edges. It is a simple way to reduce wasted boards during installation.
Should Loglap boards have a gap between them?
It depends on the moisture condition of the timber. We normally fit wet boards tightly together, while dry boards are given a few millimetres of room rather than being forced tight.
