Feather edge fencing is simple to build, but it only stays looking right if the basic layout is consistent. For a typical 6ft fence, we would normally start with posts at around 6ft centres, three horizontal rails, a gravel board and a 25mm overlap between the featheredge boards.
You do not need to force every bay to exactly 6ft. Measure the full run first and divide it into sensible, even bays. If that means moving the posts slightly closer together so the spacing works cleanly, that is better than ending up with one awkward short bay at the end. Six feet is the starting point, not something to chase at the expense of a tidy layout.
Start with the post layout
Once you know the total run, set the posts out so the bays are even and stay reasonably close to that 6ft spacing. The post depth is a separate decision and depends on the fence and ground conditions, so we cover that properly in our fence post depth guide.
With the posts in place, fit the gravel board and rails before you start on the featheredge. On a 6ft fence we would normally use three rails. A useful rule of thumb is one rail for roughly every 2ft of fence height, with two rails as the minimum on a lower fence.
It is tempting to save a rail because the fence will still look fine when it is first built. The problem is support over time. Featheredge moves as it gets wet, dries out and warms up in the sun, so giving it enough support from the start is one of those small decisions that matters more later than it does on installation day.
We would also normally fit a gravel board along the bottom. Its job is to keep the featheredge itself clear of the ground and take the wear at the bottom of the fence. Think of the gravel board as the replaceable part. If something is eventually going to deteriorate first, it is much easier to replace one lower board than start repairing the featheredge above it, so do not fix it in a way that makes future removal unnecessarily difficult.
The 25mm overlap is the bit to get right
Featheredge has a thick edge and a thin edge. The next board overlaps the thin edge of the previous board with its thick edge, and for normal feather edge fencing we use a 25mm overlap.
Start with the first board plumb and take your time getting that first line right. From there, keep the same 25mm overlap all the way along the fence. It does not matter whether you work from left to right or right to left; what matters is that the thick edge always overlaps the thin edge and the overlap stays consistent.
This is the mistake we see most often. Too much overlap does not make the fence better; it just means you burn through far more boards than you need. Too little overlap is the bigger problem. As the boards dry and heat up, gaps can open and the exposed edges can start to curl. That is why our Featheredge Fence Calculator works on the same 25mm overlap rather than using a looser estimate.
Annular nails are our first choice, but screws are easier for DIY
For fixing featheredge to the rails, we would normally use annular ring nails. They are quick, they hold well and they suit the job. Screws are perfectly workable too, and for DIY customers they can be easier because you have more control and can back one out if you need to adjust a board.
For the usual single-fixing method, put the fixing through the thicker part of the board, around 15–20mm in from the thick edge, at each rail. When the next board goes on, its thick edge overlaps and traps the thin edge of the previous board, so that thin edge does not need its own fixing.
Some installers prefer two fixings per board at each rail because the board is fully held before the next one goes on. Others use one fixing and let the following board trap the thin edge. Neither method is inherently wrong. One fixing is quicker; two gives you a little more control while you work.
What we would avoid is using an unnecessarily large fixing. Featheredge is not a big section of timber, and oversized nails or screws are a common way to split it. If you are using nails, our sherardised annular ring nails are the type of fixing we would normally reach for.
If you cut any pressure-treated fencing timber during the job, treat the fresh cut with a suitable end-grain preservative and follow the preservative manufacturer's instructions. It is another small job that is easy to skip because nothing looks wrong on the day, but it is worth doing while the timber is exposed and accessible.
Work the quantities out before you start
Once the fence length and height are known, the rest of the materials are fairly predictable. Our Featheredge Fence Calculator uses the same 25mm overlap and can estimate the boards, posts, rails, gravel boards, Postmix and fixings for the run.
If you would rather choose the materials yourself, the Feather Edge Fencing collection brings the main components together, or you can go straight to our Pressure Treated Featheredge Boards.
