For most garden edging and borders, we would lay sleepers on a level bed of gravel rather than directly onto soil. The gravel gives water somewhere to drain and helps keep the bottom of the timber away from constantly wet ground. Concrete or mortar can also work, provided the finished detail does not trap water around the sleeper.
The fixing method changes depending on whether the sleeper is laid flat or stood on edge.
Start with the base
Mark the line first, remove loose vegetation and soft material, then prepare a firm level bed. Gravel is our normal starting point because it is easy to level and helps drainage.
A sleeper laid directly onto soil can work, but if you can give water a route away from the timber, we would. That is particularly useful in wet ground or anywhere water tends to sit after rain.
Laying sleepers flat
A sleeper laid flat has a broad footprint and is naturally more stable. Set the gravel bed to the finished level, compact it, place the sleeper and check the line with a level before joining the next piece.
For straight runs, keep the ends supported and aligned. If two lengths meet, a straight support plate can help keep the joint together, while structural timber screws are useful where the sleepers are being joined directly.
Laying sleepers on edge
Standing a 195 x 95mm sleeper on edge gives a taller border but a narrower footprint, so it is easier for the timber to tip or move.
This is where Sleeper Support Spikes are particularly useful. Set the sleeper level first, then use the appropriate straight or corner support to restrain the timber in suitable ground.
Do not use a spike as a substitute for a poor base. The sleeper still needs to sit on something firm and level.
Corners and changes of direction
Get the line right before tightening the corner. Internal sleeper corner brackets keep the outside face clean and help lock the two pieces together. Corner support spikes can add ground restraint where the layout needs it.
Can sleepers be laid on concrete or mortar?
Yes. Concrete or mortar can give a firm base, but drainage still matters. Avoid creating a trough that holds water around the bottom of the timber.
Where the sleeper needs positive restraint to a concrete base, use Sleeper Base Anchors to Concrete with masonry fixings suited to the base.
Cutting to length
If the run does not work neatly with the stocked sleeper lengths, the sleepers can be cut. Treat freshly cut ends with a suitable end-grain preservative or wood preserver before installation. We can also cut sleepers for you if needed.
For tool options and a cleaner cutting method, see How to Cut Garden Sleepers.
Choose the timber and fixings together
Shop the Garden Railway Sleepers range for 195 x 95mm sleepers, brackets, support spikes, concrete anchors and structural screws. If you are unsure which fixing suits the surface or joint, use our garden sleeper fixing guide.
