Start with the correct hanger for the actual timber width and the connection. A joist hanger only performs as designed when the carried joist fits it properly and the specified fixings are installed in the correct holes.
1. Check the hanger width against the actual timber
Measure the member rather than relying on a trade name. 38mm, 47mm and 50mm hangers are different products. Do not force an oversized joist into a narrow hanger or use a loose wider hanger as an automatic substitute.
2. Hold the joist at the finished height
Set the top of the joist at the required level and position the hanger so the joist is properly seated. A temporary support, clamp or positioning aid makes it easier to keep the joist level while the hanger is fixed.
3. Keep the hanger square and tight to the supporting timber
The hanger flanges should sit flat against the supporting member and the joist should sit correctly in the seat. Do not leave the connector twisted or distorted to compensate for a badly fitting member.
4. Install the specified fasteners in the specified holes
For Wern-Wood's current standard and mini timber-to-timber hangers, use 30 × 3.75mm square twist nails. Follow the exact fixing schedule for the hanger rather than choosing your own nail or screw pattern.
5. Wrap standard Jiffy hanger legs only where the product permits it
Standard Jiffy hangers can be face-fixed or wrapped over the supporting timber where their installation instructions allow. Mini/no-leg hangers do not have the long strap legs.
6. Do not bend a standard hanger to make an angled connection
Skewed, sloping and masonry connections need the appropriate hanger design. Altering a standard hanger can change how it carries load.
7. Check the connection before loading or boarding over it
Make sure the joist is seated, the connector is tight to the timber and every fastener required by the fixing schedule is installed.
See Joist Hanger Nails or Screws? for fixing choice, or shop joist hangers.
